Creating garb from what you have
Master Katryne MacIntosh the Strange, OP
So, you’re interested in the SCA? Congratulations! You’re now on your way to enjoying a very time-intensive, resource-expensive hobby!
What’s that you say? You have a budget? Or, you have no budget but you’d really like to play anyway? The audacity!
Honestly, though, most people who begin attending SCA events start from a baseline point before jumping full into the land of high-end period couture. It’s OK - we’ve all been there, and there are still individuals who stick with the tried and true everyman version of SCA clothing.
The Society for Creative Anachronism’s Organizational Handbook, including what we call Corpora (our governing documents), requires little to participate at SCA events.
B. Requirements for Participants at Society Events Anyone may attend Society events provided they wear an attempt at pre-17th century clothing, conform to the rules of Society, and comply with any other requirements (including but not limited to site fees or waivers) which may be imposed. At business meetings and informal classes, the requirement to wear pre-17th century dress may be waived. All participants are expected to behave in an appropriate and respectful manner.
So what does that entail? Pay the site fee (if any), sign the waiver, and wear things that could plausibly be worn before the year 1600.
For those who are new to our area, we have loaner gear and garb (garb being the informal word we use for clothing) available for people to borrow. We also have events such as Newbie Collegium, where many of us use the opportunity to pass along garb that doesn’t fit us, whether our current persona or our size, and to divest ourselves of items that could be used by others, that are instrumental in helping some get ready for events.
Away from these resources, I have ideas for you to help get you on your way to a lifetime of SCA events and participation.
The basic T-Tunic. For many of us who started our SCA careers decades ago, this has been and always will be the base for SCA participation. Unlike a T-shirt, which tends to be stretchy and conforms to modern couture, this is a base constructed item that almost anyone with any level of sewing experience can create. You will need at least enough fabric to cover your top portion - something at least 30 inches wide for most people for short sleeves, and at least 45 inches wide for longer sleeves, that is at least twice the length of the distance of the top of your shoulder to below your waistline. For femme-presenting individuals, the T-Tunic can even be a T-gown, with the same width of fabric needed and the length being approximately twice a person’s height.
To make - fold the fabric lengthwise once, and crosswise once. Take a T-shirt that fits you, and fold it in half. Lay it so the neckline of the T-shirt (the rounded bit) lies flat with the top seam of the shoulder along the shorter edge of fabric and the middle seam of the shirt along the longer edge.
Measure out approximately four inches from the armpit of the T-shirt, diagonally from the corner of the fabric. Mark this point. Draw a line, either straight out to the edge, or at an angle of up to 30 degrees, to the edge of the fabric from that mark. Then draw a line from that armpit mark up to 30 degrees or, if it’s easier, from that mark to the far corner of the fabric. Now cut the triangle you just drew, away. Cut along the line of the neck of your T-shirt (the fabric, not the shirt) to create a neckhole. Remove your T-shirt. Cut a two inch slit down one layer of the folded side of the fabric, right at the fold. Unfold the fabric, put your head through the hole, and try it out. Congratulations, you have the basis for your first T-Tunic.
To finish it out, you can use bias tape to trim the neckline (easier done before you sew the whole thing together) or you can face the neckline in a fancier way. You can even just do a simple stitch to turn the edge of the fabric inwards so the raw edge of the fabric does not show. Turn the T-Tunic so the side you don’t want on the outside is on the outside, sew up the long triangle sides, turn it inside out and sew the bottom edge. Congratulations - this is a basic, finished T-Tunic!
But wait - you don’t have the patience to sew? Head to your local Goodwill or thrift shop. Go looking in the section set aside for scrubs - the clothes folks in the medical field wear. Look for tunic tops. Get a size larger than what you wear. You’re set for your first event!
Pants. Sweatpants are often the first pants many SCA folks wear. They’re usually loose, and most of the pants can be covered by shoes, socks, and the bottom hem of whatever’s on top. Look for neutral tones like black or brown, or solid colors like yellow, blue, or red, without logos or stripes. These can be purchased new for under $10.
For more advanced wear, look for linen pants. Women’s pants from fancier stores often fit this - they tend to be somewhat formless and flowing and they were popular a few years back. Eschew the $80 new versions and look in thrift store racks. Read labels and search for products that are mostly linen based. If linen is the first material listed, you’re probably OK.
Avoid modern patterns and unlikely medieval colors (day-glo green and yellow are modernly obtrusive) and look for clothing a little larger than your body size.
To make your pants look even more medieval, cut out ankle elastic and add bias tape straps. Or cover it all up with long, single-color socks.
Shoes. There has long been a joke around these parts that “anything is period below the knee.” Shoes tend to be more expensive than other items. In a perfect world, we’d all be able to wear period shoes, but we all have different feet.
The easiest way, when you start, is to get cheap but decently soled sandals. Leather or simulated leather in black or brown tones will work well. They will provide protection against rough surfaces like gravel. Ballet shoes or flats work okay, especially if you are indoors, but may lack the soles to protect your feet. And believe me, protecting your feet is essential.
If you need to wear modern shoes for any reason, choose black, brown, or gray in solids. Long dress hems cover well. Don’t sweat it.
The cape. A simple cape or cloak can elevate your appearance drastically - and it’s incredibly easy to create - even if you have no sewing skill whatsoever!
The basic cloak or cape comes from a single piece of fabric. The width of a piece of fabric is your length - the wider, the longer. It needs to be at least twice the length as the width.
Fold your fabric in half. Now, fold it again, but this time fold it from corner to corner, joining the folded edge corner to the long edge. Now, cut a curve across from one corner to the other through all four layers. Unfold - you have a half-circle of fabric! If you’d like this to be an early period cloak, wrap it around you and secure it with a pin at the neck. Later period? Cut a half-circle where your neck goes. This simple cloak is the easiest!
Except - it’s not! Want an even easier cloak? Get a round tablecloth with a width of at least 45 inches. Fold it into quarters. Make a mark at the center. Now cut a straight line through one of the layers of fabric from that mark to the edge. Unfold. Behold - a cape or cloak, ready to be worn or trimmed!
Draped fabric. Throughout history, fabric draping is a common element in clothing. The Greeks and Romans had togas and chitons as their primary and sometimes only clothes. Hindi folk still drape with saris and dhotis. Shoulder capes, outerwear - showing off extra fabric gives the impression of being rich.
Wearing a pair of shorts and possibly a sports bra or sleeveless T-shirt as a base layer is a good idea when you’re starting out making one of these. Find cording, belts, pins, and other items for accessorizing.
To make a chiton - take a piece of fabric that can wrap all the way around you at least twice. That’s your width. It should ideally be as long as you are tall. You will need two pins or brooches and a cord or belt.
Lay the fabric out with the width from side to side. Fold a portion of the width over along the entire length, equally - a quarter to a third is ideal. Now fold the width in half so the folded-over bit is inside. Find the center of the lengthwise edge, measure out about four inches from that point either way, and pin it. Turn it inside out and pull over your head between where the pins are. Now you can add brooches to the top side of where the pins are, and belt it. Congrats, that’s a chiton!
A toga is even easier. Take a plain bedsheet. Tie together the two corners on one of the two short ends. Pull over your head and put one of your arms through. Now, grab the two corners on the other short end, pull them up to the waist on the same side the knot is on your shoulder, and tie them together tightly, using the short end as your waistband. Boom - you’ve created a quick toga.
Want to look fancier? Choose fancier fabric. Saris are good for this - they look flashy and can be organized in many different ways.
Be sure to have pins available to keep bits together so your bits don’t show.
Moving on up to hats. The best way to show you’re serious about your garb is to top it off with a hat. Hats don’t have to be hard - you can wear a simple straw hat or felt hat and you’re going to be good.
A simple fabric hat can be made by cutting four circles of fabric at least 12 inches in diameter. Take three of those circles, fold them into quarters, and cut out a circle with the radius of the circumference of your head. Don’t math? Take a piece of string, wrap it around your head, then fold it into three. Use that to cut a circle from the center of your fabric rounds. Sew one of the cut circles together to the uncut circle on the outside edge. Sew the other two cut circles together the same way. Now turn both of those circles inside out and sew the inside edges on two sides together. Put your head in on the side that has the opening. Boom - a flat cap!
You can also cover your head with loose fabric by fashioning a turban. While emperors and high-ranking officials were depicted with huge turbans, yours doesn’t need to be. Simply find a large scarf or loose piece of fabric large enough to reach from one fingertip on one hand to the other on the other side, over your head, when you have your arms outstretched. Twist the end of one side of your fabric from where you can gather it on one side of your head, and roll it up. Take this portion and wrap it around the front to the back of your head, slipping the end of the fabric under the twisted bit by your ear. Now roll up the other end of the fabric, repeat, tuck - you’re done!
Belting. Belts allow you to hold your clothes together, on your body, and carry things. Pockets were, in most cultures, things worn on the outside - pouches and such dangling from your bet. Choose leather-looking belts or long pieces of fabric that looks like sashes to make things that wrap around the waist. Alternately, you can use these over the shoulder to suspend your bags of holding.
Conceal! It is AOK to wear your glasses! But items such as wallets, car keys, beverages in things that don’t look like they belong in the middle ages, and other items should be concealed beneath layers of clothing or within pouches.
Remember - As you spend time in the SCA, you’ll be able to see what other people are wearing, and be able to adapt your clothing to a couture you want. You can do all sorts of things with the materials provided. Creativity is what puts the C in the SCA!
If you have questions about a type of garb, ask someone. Most SCAdian folk love to talk about what they wear and how it was made or obtained. You may be surprised how much you learn!
Above all, remember, it’s the attempt that’s the important part. We want you to enjoy your time here. Learn as you go along - there are plenty of us who are happy and willing to help you obtain the look you want.
























